
This is one of a series of introductions to various periods of history, and who better to write the Georgian volume than Mike Rendell, he of the “Georgian Gentleman” blog? He deals with the period under various headings: politics, culture, the armed forces, industry, leisure etc, in his usual readable style and with copious colour illustrations.
One does not open an “introduction” expecting an exhaustive survey; there are suggestions at the back of the book for further reading, relevant museums and places to visit for those who wish to study the period in more depth. But this is more than a superficial overview. When space to describe a whole era is limited, the choice of detail becomes crucial, and this is where Rendell scores. He is good at finding the kind of details that not only stick in a reader’s mind (what could more succinctly convey the degree to which George I was despised than the fact that his heir’s refusal to attend the funeral earned him instant popularity?) but which add up to something beyond themselves, forming a bigger picture.
With the Georgians, as often as not, this involves fashion and invention. An explosion in the quantity of affordable printed material, like newspapers, magazines and dress and furniture catalogues, enabled ordinary folk to know what was going on in the upper echelons of society; what Duchess A was wearing and how Lord B had redecorated his mansion. This led to a desire to imitate them, which in turn was facilitated by the inventiveness of the time and the advent of means of mass production. Few could afford silver tableware, but Thomas Boulsover’s Sheffield plate made a handsome substitute, while the alloy resembling gold and named for its inventor, jeweller Christopher Pinchbeck, started a craze for costume jewellery. Even the lawns of the great mansions could be imitated in little, thanks to Edward Budding’s lawnmower – “home owners no longer needed sheep, or an army of labourers with scythes to cut the grass, and even humble abodes could have their patch of green. Few men have done more to change the immediate environment in which we live.”
And this craze for fashion had its own influence on other areas. When, in a bid to finance its wars, the government taxed powder for wigs, the public response was simple and swift: wearing one’s own hair, cropped and curled, suddenly became the new fashion. Those campaigning for the abolition of the slave trade found that they could have a real effect on policy by making it unfashionable to take sugar in tea – an early instance of boycotting a product for moral reasons. They could also, thanks to Josiah Wedgwood, advertise their allegiance by wearing one of the tens of thousands of pottery medallions he produced, with the inscription “Am I not a man and a brother?” To quote Thomas Clarkson; “Ladies wore them in bracelets […] at length the taste for wearing them became general and thus fashion, which usually confines itself to worthless things, was seen for once in the honourable office of promoting the cause of justice, humanity and freedom.”
The central and all-pervading role of fashion for the Georgians could have made an apt summary to end the book, which actually ends rather abruptly at the close of a chapter on food and drink, but this may be less the choice of the author than the house style of the series; not having read any others, I can’t say.
The illustrations are many and fascinating, as ever with this author. One oddity I noticed was how often the credits for them reference the Yale Center for British Art (where among much else there may apparently be found Katherine Read’s satirical “Grand Tour” painting and Reynolds’s great portrait of Frances Abington in a pose not entirely unlike a famous photograph of Christine Keeler), the Lewis Walpole Library in Connecticut, which boasts many a cartoon, including Gillray’s, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which supplied several of the fashion plates, and the Library of Congress. Never mind the Elgin Marbles; it would have been something if we could have exerted ourselves to keep our own history at home instead of snaffling other people’s.
This is a very readable introduction to a fascinating period that resembles our own in many ways, notably in the central role it accorded to fashion and means of communication.